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Tag: pest sealing

  • Passing Pre-Sale Inspections: The Commercial Property Manager’s Guide

    Passing Pre-Sale Inspections: The Commercial Property Manager’s Guide

    If you are preparing a commercial property for sale or leasing, securing a clean, pest-free status is a critical financial step. During pre-sale inspections, a single sign of active cockroach nesting can scare away potential buyers, delay real estate closings, or result in thousands of dollars in lost asset valuation. Plan the schedule around our guide to how long roach treatment takes before booking anything.

    The Pre-Sale Audit Danger

    Commercial building inspectors are trained to search deep inside structural cavities for signs of active insect infestations. They inspect dark corners, crawlspaces, attic joints, plumbing stacks, and cabinet hinges. If they spot live bugs or droppings, it is noted on the official inspection report, threatening the transaction.

    Why Messy Gel Baits and Toxic Sprays Are Commercial Risks

    Applying runny, dark gel baits or spraying baseboards with traditional chemical pesticides is highly problematic. Scented chemical sprays leave strong, warning odors that raise instant red flags. Gel baits melt and run under building heat, leaving dark, greasy stains on expensive woodwork that scream “active infestation.”

    Prepping Your Listing Portfolio Symmetrically

    To pass your pre-sale inspection with 100% confidence while keeping the spaces fresh and clean, apply this real estate pest protocol:

    1. Surgical Sachet Placement: Place RoachBuster dry active sachets behind appliances, under bathroom vanities, and inside crawlspace utility shafts.
    2. 100% Clean and Invisible: Our dry active paper sachet leaves absolutely zero residues or chemical smells, keeping the rooms smelling fresh and looking immaculate.
    3. Long-Term Residual Peace of Mind: A single box of RoachBuster provides months of residual protection, ensuring it passes the final walk-through inspection with flying colors.

    What a commercial inspection report actually records

    Commercial property inspections are not looking for insects so much as for conditions. An inspector records what a reasonable buyer or lender would want to know, and the pest section of a commercial report typically covers evidence of activity, conditions conducive to activity, and the adequacy of any existing management programme. That third item is the one property managers control most cheaply and neglect most often. A building with a documented programme and a couple of minor findings reads very differently from an identical building with no records at all.

    The distinction matters commercially because conditions-conducive findings are what buyers use to renegotiate. They are cheap to fix before an inspection and expensive to concede afterwards.

    The conditions-conducive list, and what each one costs to fix

    FindingWhy it appears in the reportPre-inspection fix
    Cardboard stored on floorsHarbourage and transportDecant to plastic, remove same day
    Standing water in plant roomsWater sourceClear drains, fix leaks, mop and dry
    Missing drain coversDirect entry routeFit screened covers
    Gaps at pipe and conduit penetrationsEntry and internal spreadBacker rod and sealant
    Failed door sweeps and thresholdsEntryReplace sweeps
    Overgrown vegetation against the buildingHarbourage plus bridgeTrim to a metre clearance
    Bins without lids or too close to doorsAttractantFit lids, relocate the bin compound
    Debris in ceiling void light diffusersHistoric activityClean and record
    No monitoring recordsInadequate programmeStart a log now; even eight weeks of records helps

    A sixty-day pre-sale programme

    1. Day one to seven. Full walk of the building with a torch and a camera. Record every conditions-conducive item on a single list with an owner and a date.
    2. Day seven to fourteen. Fix the water items first: leaks, blocked drains, condensate, gutters. Then fit drain covers and door sweeps.
    3. Day fourteen to twenty-one. Full placement round across plant rooms, waste areas, kitchens or canteens, goods-in, riser cupboards and any tenancy boundary. Number every position on a floor plan.
    4. Day twenty-one to thirty. Seal penetrations, remove cardboard storage, relocate bins, trim vegetation.
    5. Day thirty to forty-five. First re-inspection. Replace consumed placements, record findings, close out remaining items.
    6. Day forty-five to sixty. Second re-inspection, assemble the evidence file, and clean the visible historic evidence such as ceiling diffusers last, so cleaning does not hide an active problem you needed to find.

    Placement counts per space are in our coverage arithmetic guide, and if the building is multi-tenanted the sequencing in our multi-unit treatment plan applies directly.

    The evidence file that supports a price

    • Numbered floor plan showing every placement and monitoring position.
    • Dated inspection log with findings and initials, ideally covering at least eight weeks.
    • Corrective action register with closure dates.
    • Product labels and safety data sheets.
    • Photographs of exclusion works completed, before and after.
    • Any contractor reports, with evidence that recommendations were actioned.
    • A one-page summary at the front, because that is the only page most people read.

    This file does two things. It shortens the pest section of the report, and it removes the argument that the building has an unmanaged problem. Both translate directly into fewer retention requests at closing.

    Mistakes property managers make before a sale

    • Cleaning before inspecting. You destroy the evidence you need to target the work.
    • Treating visible areas only. Inspectors go to plant rooms, risers, ceiling voids and the bin compound.
    • Using a strong-smelling product days before a walkthrough. Buyers read chemical smell as concealment. Odourless placement avoids the inference entirely; see our odourless control guide.
    • Starting too late. A programme with two weeks of records is thin. Sixty days is credible.
    • Ignoring a neighbouring tenancy. Document it in writing so the file shows the source was identified and escalated, as covered in our recurrence guide.

    Questions property managers ask

    Do I have to disclose historic pest activity?

    Disclosure obligations vary by jurisdiction and by contract, and this is a question for your legal adviser. As a practical matter, documented activity that was identified and resolved is far less damaging than undocumented activity that a buyer discovers.

    How much product does a commercial building need?

    Scale from the room list. Plant rooms, waste areas, canteens, goods-in and riser cupboards carry most of the count; a five-box case covers a small to mid-size building for an initial round with stock for the re-inspections.

    Should I use a contractor as well?

    For commercial premises, usually yes, and in some jurisdictions it is required. A contractor report in the file also carries weight with buyers and lenders.

    What is the single highest-value action?

    Fixing standing water. It removes the most commonly cited conditions-conducive finding and it lowers the ceiling on any population in the building.

    The short version

    Inspectors score conditions and programme quality, not just insects. Walk the building sixty days out, fix water first, place across plant, waste, goods-in and riser spaces on a numbered plan, seal and exclude, run two re-inspections, and assemble an evidence file with a one-page summary. A five-box case covers a small to mid-size building through the whole programme, with a 30-day money-back guarantee.

    Always use any bait product as directed on its label, and keep placements out of reach of children and pets. This is general operational guidance, not legal advice; disclosure obligations and inspection standards vary by jurisdiction.

    Secure Your Real Estate Listing Symmetrically

    Pass inspections with 100% confidence. Protect your listing portfolio with the RoachBuster 5-Box landlord Bundle today.

    Free shipping, secure Stripe checkout, and a 30-day money-back guarantee.

    Next steps: the building-wide plan for multi-unit properties, how many sachets a full round actually takes, and how to tell whether a treatment is working.

    Treating an active infestation? One box treats one room, once. The 3-Box Kit — $120 (150 sachets, save $59.97) covers a full apartment through the complete 3-4 week treatment cycle; a $47 single box (50 sachets) covers a single-room problem. Ships within 1 business day, typical delivery 6-10 days · Free tracked shipping · 30-day money-back guarantee.
    Choose your kit →

  • Jacksonville Garage Invasions: Keeping Palmetto Bugs Out of Attached Utility Rooms

    Jacksonville Garage Invasions: Keeping Palmetto Bugs Out of Attached Utility Rooms

    Suburban homes in Jacksonville often face intense Palmetto bug pressure inside attached garages and utility rooms. Large rubber garage door bottom seals dry out and crack under the Florida sun, creating entry gates for massive, climbing pests. Pair this with our prevention plan that sticks so a cleared home stays cleared.

    The Garage-to-Home Pathway

    Garages host trash bins, recycling containers, water heaters, and storage boxes—creating a goldmine for cockroaches. Once inside the garage, palmetto bugs nest around hot water tanks and crawl through attached entry doors or AC line penetrations straight into the main house.

    Establishing an Attached Garage Barrier

    To permanently stop garage invasions before pests can reach your kitchen, apply this protocol:

    1. Place Sachet Barriers: Set RoachBuster dry active sachets along the interior edges of your garage door threshold, behind trash storage areas, and around water heater casings.
    2. Utility Closet Prep: Slide sachets next to the attached entry door threshold and utility line penetrations.
    3. Durable Residual Protection: The dry active powder stays potent in dusty, unconditioned garages, intercepting palmetto bugs without chemical odors.

    Why the garage is the real front door

    An attached garage in Jacksonville is a transition zone with almost every condition a Florida woods roach needs: warmth, darkness, cardboard, pet food, a water heater, a washing machine and a door seal that has been baking in the sun for years. Palmetto bugs are outdoor insects that wander indoors, so unlike German cockroaches they are not usually breeding in your kitchen. They are commuting. That distinction changes the entire treatment approach, because it means the perimeter and the garage matter more than the pantry.

    The failure most homeowners run into is treating the kitchen where they see the insect, rather than the garage and threshold where it entered. A single large roach in a hallway at midnight almost always walked in through the garage side door, the garage door bottom seal, or the utility room slab gap.

    The seven weak points on an attached garage

    1. The garage door bottom seal. Rubber shrinks and hardens in Florida heat. Close the door, sit inside with the lights off and look for daylight along the bottom. Any daylight is an open door.
    2. The two vertical door jambs. Weatherstrip at the sides fails before the bottom does and is almost never checked.
    3. The interior door threshold. The door from garage to house needs a door sweep, not just a threshold strip.
    4. The water heater platform. Slab penetrations for supply lines are usually finished with foam that has crumbled.
    5. The washer and dryer wall box. An open cavity behind a recessed box is a direct route into the wall.
    6. The attic pull-down hatch. Gaps around the frame connect the garage to the attic, and the attic connects to everything.
    7. Stored cardboard. Not an entry point but a harbourage and an egg-case incubator. Plastic bins solve it permanently.

    Placement plan for garage and utility rooms

    PositionPlacementsNotes
    Along the garage door track, both sides2Keep clear of vehicle tyre paths
    Behind and beside the water heater2Dry surface only, not on the drip pan
    Washer and dryer wall box and behind appliances2Avoid the vibration zone
    Garage to house door threshold, garage side1 to 2Corners rather than the walking line
    Shelving corners and stored-goods perimeter2 to 3Where cardboard was, if you have not replaced it yet
    Attic hatch frame corners1 to 2Only if reachable safely
    Exterior slab line at the garage side door2Sheltered from rain, under the lip

    That comes to twelve to fifteen placements for a garage and utility room, before you treat the kitchen at all. Homeowners routinely underestimate this, which is the whole reason we wrote the coverage arithmetic guide.

    Seasonal timing that suits north Florida

    Jacksonville pressure peaks with the summer rain pattern from June through September, when heavy afternoon storms flood the mulch and soil and push outdoor roaches toward dry shelter. A second, smaller peak arrives with the first cool snap in late autumn. The practical schedule is a full placement round in late May before the rains, a top-up inspection in August, and a lighter refresh in November. Treating reactively in July means you are competing with the weather.

    What not to do

    • Do not fog the garage. A fogger fills open air, not the sealed voids where the insects actually shelter, and it can drive them into the house. See our comparison of powder, spray and fogger.
    • Do not bait on top of standing water. Condensation on a slab in summer will ruin a dry placement. Choose sheltered, elevated, dry positions.
    • Do not leave pet food in the garage overnight. An open bag of kibble outcompetes any bait you place.
    • Do not stop after one dead insect. A single large roach means the route is open. Close the route, then keep bait on the route.

    Questions Jacksonville homeowners ask

    Are palmetto bugs and cockroaches the same thing?

    Palmetto bug is a regional nickname, usually for the American cockroach or the Florida woods roach. They are true cockroaches, just larger and more outdoor-oriented than the German cockroach found in kitchens.

    If they breed outside, why bait indoors at all?

    Because the garage and utility room are where they linger long enough to feed. Bait on the commuting route intercepts them before they reach living space, and it reduces the population that shelters in the structure itself.

    Will sealing the garage door be enough on its own?

    Sealing reduces traffic substantially but rarely to zero, because the same insects use weep holes, soffits and utility penetrations. Sealing plus baiting on the route is what produces a quiet house.

    How fast should I expect results?

    Large outdoor roaches are intercepted individually, so you will notice fewer sightings within one to two weeks rather than a sudden collapse. Progress signals are covered in our is it working guide.

    The short version

    In Jacksonville the garage is the front door. Check the bottom seal for daylight, fit a sweep on the interior door, get cardboard off the floor, and put twelve to fifteen placements on the garage and utility route before you worry about the kitchen. Time the main round for late May. One RoachBuster box covers a garage, utility room and kitchen with sachets to spare, with a 30-day money-back guarantee.

    Always use any bait product as directed on its label, and keep placements out of reach of children and pets. Nothing here is legal advice; building rules and tenancy law vary by jurisdiction.

    Stop Garage Invasions Symmetrically

    Secure garage entries. Intercept Palmetto bugs with RoachBuster’s 100% odorless, dry paper sachet system.

    Free shipping, secure Stripe checkout, and a 30-day money-back guarantee.

    Next steps: how many sachets a full round actually takes, why roaches come back after treatment, and how to tell whether a treatment is working.

    Treating an active infestation? One box treats one room, once. The 3-Box Kit — $120 (150 sachets, save $59.97) covers a full apartment through the complete 3-4 week treatment cycle; a $47 single box (50 sachets) covers a single-room problem. Ships within 1 business day, typical delivery 6-10 days · Free tracked shipping · 30-day money-back guarantee.
    Choose your kit →

  • Home Sellers Guide: Passing Pre-Sale Home Pest Inspections

    Home Sellers Guide: Passing Pre-Sale Home Pest Inspections

    If you are preparing your home for sale, securing a clean, pest-free status is a critical financial step. During pre-sale home inspections, a single sign of active cockroach nesting can scare away potential buyers, delay real estate closings, or result in thousands of dollars in lost sale value. If you are working against a deadline, see how long roach treatment takes by method, and the 21-day treatment plan for the full sequence.

    The Real Estate Pre-Sale Audit Danger

    Home inspectors are trained to search deep inside structural cavities for signs of active insect infestations. They inspect dark corners, crawlspaces, attic joints, plumbing stacks, and cabinet hinges. If they spot live bugs or telltale droppings, it is noted on the official inspection report, immediately threatening the transaction.

    Why Messy Gel Baits and Toxic Sprays Are Real Estate Risks

    Applying runny, dark gel baits or spraying baseboards with traditional chemical pesticides is highly problematic during open houses. Scented chemical sprays leave strong, warning odors that raise instant red flags for buyers. Gel baits melt and run under house heat, leaving dark, greasy stains on expensive kitchen woodwork that scream “active infestation.”

    Prepping Your Listing Portfolio Symmetrically

    To pass your pre-sale inspection with 100% confidence while keeping the home fresh and clean for open house showings, follow this real estate pest protocol:

    1. Surgical Sachet Placement: Place RoachBuster dry active sachets behind appliances, under bathroom vanities, and inside crawlspace utility shafts.
    2. 100% Clean and Invisible: Our dry active paper sachet leaves absolutely zero residues or chemical smells, keeping the home smelling fresh and looking immaculate for buyers.
    3. Long-Term Residual Peace of Mind: A single box of RoachBuster provides months of residual protection. This keeps the home fully protected throughout the listing period and ensures it passes the final walk-through inspection with flying colors.

    The three ways pests cost a seller money

    Sellers tend to think of pest findings as a pass or fail event. In practice the cost arrives in three quieter ways. A conditions-conducive note in a report gives the buyer a lever for a price reduction even where no insects were found. A retention or holdback at closing ties up funds while remediation is verified. And a finding that emerges late, after the buyer has already inspected once, damages trust and often costs more than the remediation itself. All three are avoidable with about six weeks of preparation and very little money.

    Six weeks out: the seller walk

    1. Walk the house at night with a torch, starting in the kitchen and both bathrooms. Night is when you will see activity that a daytime inspection misses.
    2. Pull the fridge, the oven and the washing machine forward and look at the wall, the floor and the appliance backs.
    3. Open every under-sink cabinet and look at the pipe penetrations, the cabinet floor corners and the underside of the sink itself.
    4. Take the bath access panel off if there is one.
    5. Check the garage, the utility room, the water heater base and the attic hatch surround.
    6. Walk the exterior perimeter and note mulch against the wall, failed door sweeps, unsealed penetrations and branches touching the roof.
    7. Write everything down. This list is your remediation plan and, later, your evidence of diligence.

    Four weeks out: fix and treat

    ItemActionTypical effort
    Any activity foundFull placement round, dense at harbourageOne hour
    Pipe penetrations under sinksWire wool plus flexible sealantThirty minutes
    Failed door sweepsReplace on every exterior doorThirty minutes per door
    Mulch and soil against the wallPull back to a gravel or bare stripAn afternoon
    Standing water and dripsFix taps, clear condensate, dry traysVaries
    Cardboard in garage or atticReplace with lidded plastic binsAn afternoon
    Cabinet odour or droppingsVacuum, detergent wash, enzyme cleanTwo hours
    Floor drainsFit screened coversFifteen minutes each

    Treat before you clean. Cleaning an active harbourage simply moves the deposit, and the population rebuilds it before the inspection. Placement counts by room are in our coverage arithmetic guide.

    Two weeks out: verify, then clean

    Re-walk at night. Check every placement and replace anything consumed. If you are still seeing activity two weeks after a full round, place more densely at the harbourage rather than more widely across the house, and consider whether a shared wall or a drain route is feeding the property, which our recurrence guide covers. Only when activity is quiet should you do the final deep clean, including cabinet interiors, appliance cavities and the deodorising steps that remove any residual smell. Cleaning last means the inspector sees a clean house and a quiet one at the same time.

    What to hand over, and what not to say

    • Do hand over a simple record. A one-page note listing what you inspected, what you treated, the product used and the dates reads as diligence.
    • Do disclose what your jurisdiction requires. Rules on material defect disclosure vary significantly, so ask your agent or lawyer rather than guessing.
    • Do not claim the house has never had an issue if it has. A discovered inconsistency is far more damaging than the original finding.
    • Do not use strong-smelling products before a viewing. Buyers interpret chemical smell as concealment, and odourless placement avoids the issue entirely; see our odourless control guide.
    • Do not remove placements before the inspection. Visible evidence of active management is a positive, not a negative.

    Questions sellers ask

    Will an inspector fail a house for finding one insect?

    A single insect is normally recorded as an observation rather than a defect. Evidence of an established population, or multiple conditions-conducive findings, is what generates renegotiation.

    How long before the inspection should I treat?

    Four to six weeks gives a full treatment cycle time to work, which matters because the second wave of hatchlings appears around weeks four to six. Our progress guide explains the curve.

    Should I pay for a pre-listing pest inspection?

    In many markets it is the cheapest insurance available, because it converts a surprise into a planned repair with your own choice of contractor and timing.

    Does treatment need to be disclosed?

    Requirements vary. In practice, disclosing a completed, documented treatment is usually better received than a bare denial, but confirm the position locally.

    The short version

    Start six weeks out, walk the house at night, pull the appliances, treat before you clean, fix water and seal penetrations, verify at two weeks, deep clean last, and hand over a one-page record. One box covers a whole house for the full pre-sale cycle with sachets left for the move, and it is backed by a 30-day money-back guarantee.

    Always use any bait product as directed on its label, and keep placements out of reach of children and pets. This is general operational guidance, not legal advice; disclosure obligations and inspection standards vary by jurisdiction.

    Secure Your Real Estate Listing Symmetrically

    Pass inspections with 100% confidence. Protect your listing portfolio with the RoachBuster 50-Sachet Box today.

    Free shipping, secure Stripe checkout, and a 30-day money-back guarantee.

    Treating an active infestation? One box treats one room, once. The 3-Box Kit — $120 (150 sachets, save $59.97) covers a full apartment through the complete 3-4 week treatment cycle; a $47 single box (50 sachets) covers a single-room problem. Ships within 1 business day, typical delivery 6-10 days · Free tracked shipping · 30-day money-back guarantee.
    Choose your kit →

  • The Ultimate Home Perimeter Sealing Checklist for Pest Defense

    The Ultimate Home Perimeter Sealing Checklist for Pest Defense

    Achieving a permanently pest-free home requires a two-part strategy: eliminating the active nesting colony with high-performance bait, and physically sealing entry paths to prevent new insects from invading your living space. If you are treating an active problem rather than preventing one, start with the 21-day treatment plan, then use our after-treatment prevention plan to keep the home clear.

    Why Structural Sealing is Crucial

    Even the most effective baiting program can feel endless if new insects are constantly wandering into your home from outdoor spaces, crawl cavities, or neighboring apartments. Sealing tiny gaps along your home’s perimeter shuts down these active entry routes permanently.

    Your Premium Perimeter Sealing Checklist

    Focus your inspection and sealing efforts on these critical entry zones:

    • Utility Plumbing Lines: Seal the gaps around sink pipes, dishwasher lines, and laundry drain stacks going through drywall using copper mesh and high-quality silicone caulk.
    • Baseboard and Floor Cracks: Fill quiet gaps along baseboards and transition thresholds where wood meets tile.
    • Exterior Door Thresholds: Install heavy-duty weatherstripping and door sweeps to eliminate crawling spaces beneath entry doors.
    • Cabinet Back Panels: Apply caulk along the joints where cabinet backings meet the wall drywall.

    Reinforcing Entry Points with Dry Bait

    Before sealing a wall gap or cabinet joint, tuck a small dry active powder bait sachet inside the void space. If any pest attempts to chew through the seal or finds a secondary entry route, it will immediately encounter the active bait, creating a continuous, self-protecting barrier.

    Sealing is easiest in an empty kitchen, which is why our guide to moving without bringing roaches puts it on the first-week list.

    Sealing addresses entry. For the resources that let a population stay once it is inside, see what attracts roaches to a clean home.

    Work from the ground up, in four bands

    A perimeter is easier to inspect if you stop thinking of it as a wall and start thinking of it as four horizontal bands, each with its own failure modes. Ground contact, the first three hundred millimetres above grade, the utility band where services enter, and the roof line. Almost every entry point on a house sits in one of those bands, and each band has a different fix.

    Band one: ground contact

    • Mulch, soil and plant litter against the wall. The most productive harbourage on most properties. Create a bare or gravel strip of at least a hundred and fifty millimetres against the foundation.
    • Firewood, paving slabs and stored materials. Anything stacked against the house is a harbourage with a bridge attached. Move it two metres out and off the ground.
    • Irrigation heads spraying the wall. Redirect them. Permanent wall damp accelerates every other failure in this list.
    • Grade above the slab line. Where soil has built up over the years above the slab or damp course, water and insects both get an easy route in. Regrade rather than seal.
    • Gaps under thresholds and garage doors. Fit or replace sweeps and bottom seals; check for daylight from inside with the lights off.

    Band two: the first three hundred millimetres

    • Weep holes in brickwork. Screen them with stainless mesh inserts. Do not seal them; they are drainage.
    • Air bricks and crawl space vents. Screen with fine stainless mesh, replace anything broken.
    • Expansion joints and slab-to-wall junctions. Fill with backer rod and a flexible sealant rated for movement.
    • Hose bibs and outdoor taps. Seal the escutcheon plate and fix any drip; a permanently wet patch here is an invitation.
    • Utility box bases. Meter boxes and irrigation controllers often have an open bottom straight into a wall cavity.

    Band three: the utility band

    PenetrationTypical failureCorrect fix
    Water and gas linesCrumbled foam or nothing at allBacker rod plus flexible sealant, or a proper collar
    Electrical conduitOpen annular gapWire wool packed, then sealant
    Air conditioning refrigerant linesDegraded insulation and open sleeveRe-insulate and seal the sleeve
    Condensate dischargeDamp patch against the wallExtend the discharge away from the building
    Cable and data entriesDrilled and forgottenSealant plus a grommet
    Dryer ventMissing or stuck flapReplace the vent hood with a working damper
    Bathroom and kitchen extract ventsNo damper, open ductFit a backdraught damper and screen

    Band four: the roof line

    • Soffit and fascia gaps. Common on older properties and a direct route into the attic.
    • Roof vents and turbine bases. Screen them.
    • Overhanging branches. Any branch touching the roof or wall bypasses the entire ground-level perimeter. Trim back to a metre of clearance.
    • Gutters holding debris and water. Standing organic water at the roof line supports a population that then enters at the soffit.
    • Chimney and flue surrounds. Check flashing and any gap where the stack meets the roof deck.

    The order that saves the most work

    1. Walk the perimeter and write the list before buying anything. Most properties have six to twelve real defects, not fifty.
    2. Treat first if you have active insects indoors, then seal. Sealing a live population inside a void pushes it into the house.
    3. Fix water before fixing gaps. Drips, irrigation and drainage do more than sealant.
    4. Do band one and band three next, since they account for most traffic.
    5. Screen rather than seal any opening that exists for ventilation or drainage.
    6. Re-walk the perimeter every six months, and annually replace door sweeps in hot or coastal climates.

    Sealing works best combined with interception at the same points. Placement counts for thresholds, utility spaces and garages are in our coverage arithmetic guide, and our recurrence guide explains why sealing alone tends to disappoint.

    Questions homeowners ask

    Can I seal my way to zero insects?

    Not on most properties. Sealing dramatically reduces traffic, but ventilation and drainage openings must stay open and some routes are inaccessible. Sealing plus interception is what produces a quiet house.

    What sealant should I use?

    A flexible exterior sealant rated for joint movement for gaps up to about ten millimetres, backer rod behind anything larger, stainless mesh for ventilation openings, and expanding foam only where it will be covered and protected from sunlight.

    Is steel wool better than foam for pipe gaps?

    For rodents, yes, and it also gives sealant something to key into. For insects, the sealant skin is what matters; the wool is there to fill the void.

    How often does this need redoing?

    Inspect twice a year. In hot, humid or coastal climates treat door sweeps and exposed sealant as annual consumables.

    The short version

    Inspect in four bands: ground contact, the first three hundred millimetres, the utility band and the roof line. Fix water before gaps, treat before sealing, screen anything that exists for drainage or ventilation, and re-walk twice a year. Pair the sealing work with placements at thresholds, garages and utility penetrations; one box covers a whole perimeter and interior with sachets to spare, backed by a 30-day money-back guarantee.

    Always use any bait product as directed on its label, and keep placements out of reach of children and pets.

    Treating an active infestation? One box treats one room, once. The 3-Box Kit — $120 (150 sachets, save $59.97) covers a full apartment through the complete 3-4 week treatment cycle; a $47 single box (50 sachets) covers a single-room problem. Ships within 1 business day, typical delivery 6-10 days · Free tracked shipping · 30-day money-back guarantee.
    Choose your kit →